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Treating Acne Scars

The good news is that the pimple on your face is gone, but the bad news is that the breakout left its mark in the form of a scar. Acne scars develop in areas where former cystic blemish lesions have been present. Acne scars come in three varieties:

What Makes Acne Worse?

Sun – Exposing scars to the sun can cause them to darken and slow the healing process. Ultraviolet rays stimulate melanocytes (pigment-producing cells), leading to further discoloration. Your safest bet: Before heading outdoors, slather on a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher, with the physical blocker zinc oxide, and reapply every two hours.

Picking and Squeezing – Scars, which are made mainly of collagen (a protein fiber normally found in the skin’s second layer), are the body’s way of repairing itself. Acne scars are typically indented because of collagen loss from intense inflammation, says Alster. Picking leads to further inflammation and injury of the skin, which adds to the skin’s discoloration and scarring. Squeezing or trying to pop a pimple causes pus and bacteria to filter deeper into the skin, resulting in more collagen damage.

Vitamin E – You may have heard that applying topical vitamin E to a scar will help it heal faster. But according to a study, applying the nutrient directly onto a scar can actually hinder its healing. In the study, vitamin E had no effect (or made matters worse) for 90% of the patients, and 33% who used topical vitamin E developed a contact dermatitis.

What Makes Acne Scars Better?

Cortisone and Fade Creams – First, if the scar is red or swollen, use an over-the-counter cortisone cream to calm the skin. The cortisone is absorbed by skin cells and reduces inflammation. Next, concentrate on lightening any hyperpigmentation left from the acne scar. Also, there are other ingredients to look for over-the-counter that help lighten hyperpigmentation. Kojic acid (a natural skin lightener derived from mushroom extract), arbutin (aka bearberry extract), and even vitamin C (ascorbic acid) are great alternative ingredients to look for in over-the-counter lightening creams. Unfortunately, there is no over-the-counter treatment that can fill in the indentations of atrophic acne scars.

Laser and Filler Treatments – If your acne scars don’t fade away on their own, then lasers are a powerful treatment option. Within one to three sessions, laser skin resurfacing using fractionated laser technology can even out the skin surface and increase new collagen formation to help fill in acne scars. Non-ablative lasers stimulate the production of collagen without damaging the skin’s surface. Meanwhile, ablative lasers (i.e. CO2 and erbium) vaporize the scar, allowing smoother skin to take its place. Filler injections can also prove beneficial at filling in the indentations left behind from deep acne scars.

For further information and images, read our page on acne treatment options.  To discover which acne treatment is appropriate for you, call Radiant Medspa at 206-402-3063 in Seattle or 425-640-5900 in Lynnwood for a complimentary consultation.